2025-10-29 10:22:06
Presenters: Doat G, Barry C, Bucay V
Background: With the growing trend of having multi-functioning anti-aging products, ingredient blends are gaining momentum over products with single ingredient efficacy. In addition, tolerability for even for the most sensitive skin types is becoming a priority in the anti-aging landscape. A combination ingredient cream containing retinaldehyde (RAL), niacinamide, both a low molecular weight (LMW) and high molecular weight (HMW) hyaluronic acid, and a thermal spring water with an exclusive microflora (Aquaphilus dolomiae) was evaluated.
The use of retinoids and vitamin A derivatives for photoaging has been well documented.1 They are among the most effective compounds in treating the signs of photodamage and aging. Retinoids regulate cell apoptosis, differentiation and proliferation. Retinoids improve wrinkles by promoting keratinocyte proliferation, strengthening the protective function of the epidermis, reducing transepidermal water loss and protecting collagen against degradation by inhibiting metalloproteinases activity.2 Although topical retinoic acid (RA) effectively restores photoaged skin, the associated irritation often limits its utility. The use of immediate RA precursors, such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and beta carotene may prevent “overload” of the retinoic acid, which may be associated with less irritation. Human keratinocytes convert retinol into retinaldehyde and then into RA by two enzymatic steps involving dehydrogenases.3 Unlike retinol, retinaldehyde (RAL) is the natural immediate precursor of retinoic acid and can also be used to treat photoaged skin with good tolerability.4 Retinaldehyde has been shown to be 10 x more bioavailable than retinol5,6 and 3x more potent than retinol with an excellent tolerability profile.5 Niacinamide (nicotinamide or vitamin B3) plays a pivotal role in NAD+ synthesis, notably contributing to redox reactions and energy production in cutaneous cells. Via diversified biochemical mechanisms, niacinamide is also known to influence human DNA repair and cellular stress responses. From a cosmeceutical standpoint, niacinamide has been widely leveraged as a multipurpose anti-aging ingredient because of significant reductions in cutaneous oxidative stress, inflammation, and pigmentation.7 Due to its strong water-binding potential, hyaluronic acid (HA) is a well-known active ingredient for cosmetic applications. Native HA helps the skin to retain and maintain elasticity, turgor and moisture. In one study, topical application of all 0.1% HA formulations at different molecular weights (50, 130, 300, 800 and 2000 kDa) led to significant improvement in skin hydration and elasticity. Application of low-molecular-weight (LMW) HA was associated with significant reduction of wrinkle depth, which may be due to better penetration abilities of LMW HA.8 The water from a thermal spring found in Avène, France has a unique and unchanging composition with an exclusive double mineral and biologic signature. This ion balanced water, with a constant temperature, low mineral content enriched with silica and trace elements, an ideal calcium/magnesium ratio, and a neutral pH, has been found beneficial to the skin.9 Aquaphilus dolomiae is a nonpathogenic, gram-negative, highly flagellated bacterium found only in the deep, pure waters specific to this thermal spring and is thought to contribute to associated skin benefits. The water has demonstrated a 47% decrease in skin sensitivity by evaluating irritation, tingling, burning, heat sensation, redness, itching, tightness, discomfort, and pain.10
Method: Two studies were performed to evaluate the effectiveness of the retinaldehyde 0.1 cream with niacinamide, hyaluronic acid with a molecular weight of 120 kDa/800kDa and thermal spring water with Aquaphilus dolomiae. The first was a patient perception survey with 44 women (ages 45-65) looking at perceived improvement in skin firmness, luminosity, skin smoothness and texture with a nightly application of the cream comparing the results at baseline and at day 57. The second study was a split face comparison by a clinical evaluator with 66 men and women (ages 35- 65) who had undergone an in-office procedure which included a peel, laser or injection. All patients used the same healing cream for 7 days post procedure and then the cream was applied to half of the face in the evening for 3 months.
Results: The patient perception survey demonstrated a perceived improvement in skin luminosity (84%), firmer skin (93%), smoother skin (95%) and texture (89%). Clinical evaluation of patient’s post-procedure results indicated a 23% improvement in skin radiance and a 21% improvement on the treated side compared to untreated side.
Conclusion: The first study indicates that patients perceive a visible benefit with nightly use of the retinaldehyde 0.1 cream with niacinamide, hyaluronic acid with of molecular weight of 120 kDa/800kDa and thermal spring water with Aquaphilus dolomiae. As a positive patient experience and perception are critical for compliance, this result is an encouraging first step. The second study took a unique perspective of investigating incremental improvements after in-office procedures. While the treatments alone, with an appropriate post-procedure cream will show improvement, there was a definite increase in improvement with use of the Retinaldehyde 0.1 cream with niacinamide, hyaluronic acid with a molecular weight of 120 kDa/800kDa and thermal spring water with Aquaphilus dolomiae. Often, the use of a retinoid post-procedure is limited by its potential for irritation. It is hypothesized that the combination of ingredients with the soothing nature of the thermal spring water, contributed to both compliance and efficacy.
Conclusion: Both studies have obvious limitations in relying solely on the subjectivity of perceived results and clinical evaluation. Nonetheless, the results do suggest a promising anti-aging option and the need for further studies.
Funding: This study was supported by Pierre Fabre, USA, Secaucus, NJ.
References:
1 Mambwe B, Mellody KT, Kiss O, et al. Cosmetic retinoid use in photoaged skin: A review of the compounds, their use and mechanisms of action. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2025;47(1):45-57.
2 Zasada M, Budzisz E. Retinoids: active molecules influencing skin structure formation in cosmetic and dermatological treatments. Postepy Dermatol Alergol. 2019;36(4):392-397.
3 Saurat JH, Didierjean L, Masgrau E, et al. Topical retinaldehyde on human skin: biologic effects and tolerance. J Invest Dermatol. 1994;103(6):770-774.
4 Kwon HS, Lee JH, Kim GM, Bae JM. Efficacy and safety of retinaldehyde 0.1% and 0.05% creams used to treat photoaged skin: A randomized double-blind controlled trial. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2018;17(3):471-476.
5 Saurat JH, Didierjean L, Masgrau E, et al. Topical retinaldehyde on human skin: biologic effects and tolerance. J Invest Dermatol. 1994;103(6):770-774.
6 Konisky H, Bowe WP, Yang P, Kobets K. The Clinical Efficacy and Tolerability of a Novel Retinaldehyde Serum with Firming Peptides to Improve Skin Texture and Signs of Photoaging. J Drugs Dermatol. 2024;23(11):992-997.
7 Marques C, Hadjab F, Porcello A, et al. Mechanistic Insights into the Multiple Functions of Niacinamide: Therapeutic Implications and Cosmeceutical Applications in Functional Skincare Products. Antioxidants (Basel). 2024;13(4):425. Published 2024 Mar 30.
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