2025-10-29 10:17:12
Presenters: Bui H,1 Frey C1
Affiliations: 1Howard University Hospital Department of Dermatology
Background: Americans are investing heavily in efforts to slow the effects of aging. As skin matures, its natural rejuvenation processes slow, leading to thinning, dryness, reduced elasticity, and visible signs such as wrinkles, discoloration, uneven texture, and changes in pore size. Age-related reductions in hyaluronic acid and collagen, combined with photoinduced cellular damage, result in thinning, dryness, decreased elasticity, wrinkles, dyschromia, and textural irregularities. Photoaging also increases oxidative stress and may elevate the risk of cutaneous malignancies. This study investigates a novel topical formulation containing Lavandula hybrida extract (1%), Lespedeza capitata flower extract (3%), kangaroo paw flower extract (2%), dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline (1%), and tetrapeptide-30 (2.5%). The formulation was designed to stimulate cutaneous melatonin production, reduce inflammation, support dermal structure, and enhance collagen and elastin synthesis. We aim to evaluate its synergistic effects on skin hydration, texture, and barrier function in photodamaged skin, with the goal of developing a treatment applicable across diverse age groups and skin types.
Objective: To assess the clinical efficacy of a novel facial moisturizer in improving skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), wrinkles, and texture using the Cortex Technology DermaLab® system and the Canfield VISIA® imaging platform.
Methods: This was an 8-week, split-face, double-blind, placebo-controlled, randomized trial involving 25 participants with Fitzpatrick skin types (FST) II–VI and mild-to-moderate photodamage. Subjects were instructed to apply the treatment moisturizer to one side of the face and a control moisturizer (from a leading drug store brand) to the other side of their face twice daily. Skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), wrinkle severity, and texture were assessed at baseline, week 4, and week 8 using the Cortex Technology DermaLab® system and the Canfield VISIA® imaging platform.
Results: The study population (N = 25) comprised 3 males and 22 females, including 1 participant with FST II, 3 with FST III, 10 with FST IV, 9 with FST V, and 2 with FST VI, ranging in age from 25 to 59 years. At week 4, the treatment group demonstrated a 25.61% increase in skin hydration versus 5.28% in the control group, rising to 29.66% versus 3.81% at week 8. TEWL was reduced by 15.88% and 26.56% in the treatment group at weeks 4 and 8, respectively, compared with 2.50% and 21.14% in the control group. VISIA analysis showed wrinkle severity improved by 19.12% and 21.04% in the treatment group at weeks 4 and 8, respectively, versus 0.67% and 8.07% in the control group. Texture improved by 10.25% and 13.56% in the treatment group at weeks 4 and 8, respectively, compared with 5.81% and 7.97% in the control group.
Discussion: The results of this 8-week randomized, split-face trial demonstrate that the novel topical formulation produced clinically meaningful improvements in multiple parameters of photodamaged skin compared with control. Increases in skin hydration exceeded 25% by week 4 and approached 30% by week 8, suggesting rapid and sustained enhancement of epidermal water retention. Corresponding reductions in TEWL indicate improved barrier integrity, which may underlie the observed gains in hydration. VISIA imaging revealed consistent improvements in wrinkle severity and texture, with treatment effects evident as early as week 4 and maintained through week 8. These findings support the hypothesized synergistic activity of the formulation’s botanical extracts, peptide, and amino acid derivative in promoting dermal matrix support, reducing inflammation, and enhancing cutaneous repair.
Conclusion: This novel moisturizer significantly improved hydration, barrier function, wrinkle appearance, and texture in subjects with mild-to-moderate photodamage across Fitzpatrick skin types II–VI. The magnitude and early onset of effects suggest its potential as an effective topical option for improving skin quality and mitigating visible signs of photoaging. Longer-term studies with larger cohorts are warranted to confirm durability of results and explore its role in comprehensive anti- aging regimens.
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